Makeup is constantly on the move; with new formulations, state-of-the-art applicators and souped-up pigments, but what’s on the agenda for the future?
Makeup products en masse are heavy; my handbag makeup kit is definitely testament to this. The way of the future is smaller packaging with more intense pigmentation. One advocate of this is makeup artist Troy Surratt who has designed his own line of pint-sized palettes (think mobile phone-sized) that fit perfectly into your hand. His best selling eye shadow palette features six wearable shades from nude to metallic black to help lighten your load.
Shideido’s makeup director Dick Page also has size on his mind. He told Refinery29: “If you can start with an intense color, then you can achieve a smaller product with more payoff. My dream is to have this high-intensity pigment idea, but something with portability.” Watch this space.
Lightweight makeup is also a passion of Page’s. “Water is an interesting new delivery system for makeup,” he says. “Mostly, it’s the comfort factor. It’s very lightweight.” The only issue with water-based products is keeping them stable. There is still a way to go with developing this concept.
Colour it up
Dick Page predicts a move back to colour, with even classic neutral shades evolving to a more interesting hue. “We’re pushing beige into a more yellow tone and seeing what happens,” says Page. “We’ll take a hazelnut to a deep grey-brown. We’re asking questions: ‘What can you do with grey?’ ‘What can you do with mauve?'”
No matter how many foundation options are out there, getting the perfect match is often a result of doing a bit of a custom blend at home particularly if you are at either end of the skin tone spectrum. Erin McCarthy, who heads up product development at Ardency Inn, has developed a Custom Coverage Concentrate, a custom tint that you can add to any moisturiser to create the perfect base. This groundbreaking concentrate lets you to custom-build your coverage by varying the amount of pigment you add to your moisturiser. You can start with a tinted moisturiser consistency by adding a drop of concentrate into your moisturiser and just keep adding to create a full-blown foundation.
Perfect matching is certainly the way of the near future. Procter & Gamble’s Sarah Vickery is a principal scientist for research and development and she says. “We can certainly see [a time] when women will just be able to go up to a device, get their photo taken, and that device matches them to the product they should use,” she says. In fact Sephora and Pantone have recently piloted this concept.
Vickery also says, “As things like plastic surgery…become more commonplace, our beauty ideals [will] shift a little bit. You will see technologies that will exaggerate feminine features.” So lip plumpers are one example. Imagine this effect on cheeks with a plumping blush?
This will also impact on customised brush applicators: think lash wands you can dial up with your exact specifications (volume, length, separation) and personalised makeup brushes.